How to Grow Big Giant Pumpkins

Pumpkin Painting and Designs Just in time for Halloween

2010-10-06T11:50:00.000-07:00

Simple Pumpkin Painting
With each annual visit to the pumpkin patch, teachers, room mothers, scout troop leaders and parents alike often wonder how to make the most of the prize pumpkin that was chosen by a child.
Forget the messy and dangerous ideas of carving. Pumpkin Painting is the perfect solution to a creative dilemma!
Painting silly, goofy or scary faces or other designs can be a fun, yet relatively simple activity for children and adults.
Preschool age children can even participate in creating their own designs for their pumpkins. You certainly can't say that about carving pumpkins!
The easiest design to paint on a pumpkin is a traditional jack-o-lantern face. But here are some other ideas for festive designs:
- silly or goofy faces
- favorite cartoon characters
- fall leaves
- scarecrow
- witch
- princess
- turkey
- spider
- ghosts
- cats
- goblin
Painting pumpkins is a very economical craft as most supplies are readily available (you probably already have some of these in your home):
- washable markers
- acrylic craft paints
- newspaper
- spray sealer
- accessories such as raffia, jewelry, hats, etc.
Before beginning, decide what design you are going to paint and trace that design onto a clean pumpkin. You can freehand the design or select one of the many designs in the ultimate e-guide for pumpkin painting, Easy Pumpkin Painting.
Once you or your child has painted their first pumpkin, chances are you’ll want to paint an entire pumpkin family to proudly display at your home.
Pumpkin Painting is an annual family tradition at our house. We hope it will be at yours as well.
Easy Pumpkin Painting is a guide that contains step-by-step instructions and color photographs of exactly how to paint the cutest Halloween pumpkins. It also contains templates that you can use to paint your first pumpkin in about an hour! Easy Pumpkin Painting makes painting pumpkins, well, Easy!

Click Here to Visit Easy Pumpkin Painting Website

Video (Time Lapse) of the growth of a giant pumpkin

2010-04-19T05:08:00.000-07:00

I found this video, and thought I share it for those who haven't seen it yet. It is a punch of pics made into a time lapse from beginning to end of the growing processes. Toward the end it's just a bunch of different angles, apparently they blew the pumpkin up after growing.

World Record for the Largest Pumpkin

2010-04-17T13:21:00.000-07:00

The current record for the largest pumpkin ever grown happened just last year. How much did this giant pumpkin weigh you ask. Let me start by telling you what the previous record was. Joe Jutras from North Rhode Island beat the record in 2007 with a whooping 1689 pound giant pumpkin.

In 2009, Joe Jutras record was shattered by an Ohio women whose giant pumpkin weighed in at 1,725 pounds. Christy Harp is now the current champion for the worlds largest(heaviest) pumpkin.

If history repeats itself there is a good chance the record will be broken again this year. How long till we have a one ton pumpkin.

Giant Pumpkin Seed Germination

2010-04-15T10:32:00.000-07:00

First step into the successfull germination of pumpkin seeds or any type of seeds is that you want to start with a decent, quality seed. You do not want the seed to be too old. So check for a date before buying. If a seed looks hollow chances are there is nothing there.

I like to soak my seeds in water overnight, some people only do it for an hour or two. You do this so the giant pumpkin seeds have time to absorb the water. Some people will even go as far to scratch the seed with sandpaper or a nail file, to allow for better water absorbtion. I will usually just soak them in water. You want to start with a very basic soil. Make sure it contains no fertilizer, as this can burn the roots and the seed. You will want to plant the giant pumpkin seeds about an inch and a half deep. I always try to keep the pointed end facing down. For the first couple of days it is best to keep them in warm area. In about five days should start to the first leaves forming. Be careful to not over water them at this point.

When to start and plant your pumpkin seeds.

2010-04-14T06:56:00.000-07:00

When it comes to when you should start your giant pumpkins, nobody can give you an exact date. Giant pumpkins seeds are started before your regular size pumpkins because they need more time to grow and mature. You want to be very careful when picking a date to place them in the ground, if it frosts it will kill your little giant pumpkins. Your standard, run of the mill, giant pumpkin needs typical 148 - 155 days to reach maturity. If you are starting average sized field pumpkins you don't need to put them out as early.

Most expert giant pumpkin growers will always start their giant pumpkin seeds indoors. They prefer indoors because they can control "the weather" a bit more. We are not talking any big indoor greenhouses either. Strategic placement by a window or bright light will be suffice. A general rule of thumb for starting times is the following.

Giant Pumpkin - Start indoors no earlier than the last week of April. When it looks like it can be transplanted safely(usually when one or two leaves are formed). But watch the weather if it is going to get cold overnight that there is a chance for frost, make sure you cover them and do your best to prevent frosting.

My Tips for Growing Giant Pumpkins

2010-04-13T09:31:00.000-07:00

Hello readers, I have decided to write weekly tips. Not only to inform you but to help remind me as well.

Hopefully by now you have already have or have ordered some giant pumpkin seeds this year. If you have not keep the following tips in mind when selecting you next pumpkin seed. Remember what works best for someone else and their environment may not be the best for your pumpkins.

This tip is all about starting with quality giant pumpkin seeds. When you think about growing these giant pumpkins, think of it has breeding a champion dog. You want to have the seeds to be from a respectable line of genetics that have been known to produce monsters consistency.

So make sure when you are shopping for giant pumpkin seeds that you do a little research beforehand about the quality of said "seed".

Also, make sure you know the type of pumpkin. Find out what the ideal climate and conditions are required for that specific variety.

Buy giant pumpkin seeds from proven award winners, and you to could be floating down the river in a giant pumpkin.

The next tip I will try to focus on the best possible ways on how to start pumpkin seeds. Should you start them indoors? I will hope to have it up shortly. Keep checking back for more giant pumpkin seed action. If you have any tips for growing pumpkins, please feel free to send them to us.

Pumpkin Genetics

2010-04-04T16:31:00.001-07:00

Pumpkin Genetics by Joe Ailts

B.S. Biotechnology, University of Wisconsin-River Falls
When trying to grow that huge Atlantic Giant pumpkin, there are two subjects that ultimately determine how big that pumpkin is going to be: environmental factors and genetics. Environmental factors include watering, fertilizing, temperature, sunlight, etc. These are all aspects of gardening that the grower has some control over. Genetics on the other hand is a little trickier, often times unpredictable and far less understood. This article will shed some light on the basics of genetics as it relates to Atlantic Giant pumpkins.
A pumpkin plant produces female flowers, which contain hundreds of ovules (eggs). It also produces male flowers, which produce pollen (sperm). Reproduction in plants, like animals, involves the uniting of an egg and a sperm to produce offspring. In the case of pumpkins, they produce seeds. One pollen grain + one ovule = one seed. Each pumpkin will produce many hundreds of seeds.
Each seed contains it’s own unique code which dictates all aspects of the future pumpkin’s growth. This code is called DNA. DNA is organized into genes. A gene controls one specific aspect of the pumpkin’s growth. One or more genes work together to form a trait. Color, size, and shape are considered traits.
Confused yet? Hopefully not because it gets thicker yet. There are many variations to a gene, which are termed alleles. Alleles are what make us, and pumpkins, all unique. For example, green, orange, red and yellow are all separate alleles for the “color” gene in pumpkins.
When the sperm and the egg unite, they combine their DNA to form a complete seed. The sperm and the egg each contain one allele for every gene (there are thousands) in the pumpkin’s genome. When the two alleles combine, the plant has a way of deciding which of the two alleles will be used or “expressed”. This is termed dominance and recessiveness. A sperm or an egg can contain either a dominant or a recessive allele for any gene, depending on what the parent plant originally gave it. A dominant allele will in effect shut off the recessive allele, thereby allowing the dominant allele to be expressed.
In pumpkins, orange color is a dominant allele, and green color is a recessive allele. If the egg contains the orange allele and the sperm contains the green allele, the orange color will be expressed, because it has dominance over the recessive green allele. The only way to produce a green pumpkin is if both the egg and sperm contain the recessive green allele.
One final point to keep in mind is that the pollen fertilizing the female flower has no effect on the growing pumpkin. The DNA contained within the pollen is passed on to the seed of the pumpkin. Therefore, the traits exhibited by a growing pumpkin are the direct result of the female’s parents. When making a cross, you are actually preparing the genetics of the next generation of pumpkins!
If you have ingested and understood the previous paragraphs, congratulate yourself. Some of the concepts are hard to grasp, but in the end will pay off. Hopefully this will be the jumpstart you needed to dive into more complex issues concerning AG genetics and it does get much more complex than this!!

Compost Feeding Your Pumpkin

2010-04-04T16:28:00.000-07:00

COMPOST FEEDING YOUR PUMPKIN By: George Brooks
	Although this season isn't even over yet you should start planning for next year to improve your chances of growing a big one. The following article is about one method that has given me excellent results over the last three seasons.
This is not the only good method out there but is one of the best for supplying a consistent flow of nutrients. This gives the plant what it needs at the right time "as the plant needs it." You do not want the plant to receive a surge of nutrients followed by famine. That type of roller coaster ride can trigger the plant to stop the Pumpkin from growing and starting the maturing process. Rapid growth can also occur causing the Pumpkin to burst or "Blow Out." Genetics does play a role in that condition though. Compost located near the root system will attract the Pumpkin Plant's root system. This will allow the plant to extract its nutrients as needed by expanding the root system below and up through the Compost. About the concept: I discovered that plants seek out nutrients, especially Compost, with their root systems from quite a distance. The first instance I encountered was when my Tomato plants sent roots out over four feet to reach a Compost Pile. Many times when moving Compost I have found numerous root systems growing up through the pile. The most dramatic was a Pokeberry Plant that had grown its carrot like root up through the center of a pile. The root was actually two feet above the normal soil level of the plant growing beside the pile. Knowing that it's important to supply a steady food source to grow huge Atlantic Giant Pumpkins. I devised a way that was compatible with this variety's growth needs. In this article you will find information to help you experiment with this process. Getting Started: You need to get started right away so you will have plenty of partially decomposed Compost for next year. That's right "Partially Decomposed." The reason being if it was completely broken down it's nutrients would be lost to leaching long before the next growing season was complete. You don't need anything elaborate to start your Compost Pile. A piece of fence wire made into a circle will do just fine. In your pile put every piece of organic matter you can find. Some good sources are: grass clippings, all plant matter from your garden, Maple Leaves and fallen fruit of all kinds. Care should be given to the type of leaves used. Some leaves contain a growth inhibitor that will actually reduce your Pumpkin's growth. Others may be very Acidic like Oak Leaves and take too long to break down. Maple Leaves are a good choice if you have them in your area. If Maple Leaves are unavailable check with your local University Extension Service for another type of leaf that could be used. Layer your ingredients with grass clippings to supply a natural source of Nitrogen to aid in decomposition. A layer of Manure will also be a big boost but avoid any mixed with sawdust, if possible. Sawdust consumes much of the Nitrogen as it breaks down. Another very important ingredient is Red Wiggler Worms. They will eat plant matter as soon as it starts to cool. Unlike Earthworms that will only eat Compost that is almost completely broken down. Red Wigglers are a reddish brown small to medium sized worm. Many Bait Stores carry them in the summer when regular Earthworms are scarce. You can also buy them from Garden Supply Houses. Place them near the bottom in your new Compost Pile as soon as it is cool enough to touch. You do not need to turn your Compost because the worms will eat their way right up through it. Place bags of leaves all around your Compost Pile before the weather becomes too cold, to keep it active well into the winter season. Preparing Your Planting Spot Next Season: (See figure 1) Prepare your garden soil as usual by adjusting the pH and over all nutrient levels. This is important because this soil will have to feed the Pumpkin Plant until the roots reach the Compost. Prepare your garden soil then mark out a spot four feet by five feet. Your Pumpkin Mound will be located here. Along side each of the five foot sides, mark a spot three feet by five feet. Then remove the top soil in both areas to a depth of one foot, (if you have it), and pile it on the Pumpkin Mound area. If you do not have one foot of top soil remove what is available down to the sub-soil. Then remove and discard enough sub-soil until you have a one foot deep hole. Pile the soil up on the mound and let it slide down all four edges to form slanted sides. When all soil is piled up in the Mound Area flatten the top into a rectangle that's smaller than the base of the pile. Smooth out the sides so they have enough slope to stay together and absorb the warm sunlight. Then place a board on one of the slopes so you can kneel and reach the top of the mound without compacting the soil. In the top of the mound dig another rectangle four to six inches deep by mounding the soil removed around the edges of the hole. Compact the sides slightly to prevent them from falling apart. Later this hole is where you will plant your seeds about two inches from the edges. You are now ready to add your Compost. Loosen the soil or sub-soil at the bottom of your three by five holes. Then start adding layers of your Compost from last fall's pile. Cover each layer, (about six inches), with a layer of leaves, (about one inch), from one of the leaf bags you placed around your Compost Pile. On top of that add a one inch layer of Manure. Continue until you have one and a half feet of Compost overflowing the hole. This will settle down during the summer. Check for Red Wigglers in the Compost as you go and add some more if needed. You will find that over time they will multiply like crazy and you will never have to buy any again. To aid in early season growth you can add some porous black plastic around the outside of the mound to help in absorbing sunlight. Make sure you do not go any further down than the top of the Compost to avoid blocking root growth. You are now ready to plant your seeds. Plant several, then thin to the best looking one when they start to send out a runner. As the Pumpkin Plant develops the roots will search out the Compost that is being broken down by the Red Wigglers. They turn Compost into food that the plant can readily use. This will supply a steady flow of nutrients throughout the season. Watch for a Nitrogen deficiency, a condition that is more prevalent in a rainy season. This can be monitored by checking the terminal growth on the vines. This should be done on a warm sunny day late in the afternoon. A cloudy or cold day (below 80 degrees) can give you a false reading. The leaves should be a rich green color. If they are not for several days in a row, a Nitrogen fix should be considered. Put one of the following on the Compost and in the Mound Hole "VERY SPARINGLY." Manure Tea, or Urea (45-0-0) will work very well. If you use Urea, water it in and be careful not to get the granules on the plant or it will burn it. Check the leaves again in a couple of days to see if the color is back. Your efforts will help produce a strong steady growth that should persist throughout the growing season. At the end of the season check and see if the root system grew into your Compost. Make note of the success and/or failures and make the appropriate changes for next season. Closing Thoughts and Precautions: With any new process or seed variety you try in garden never rely on that one new thing. Try Compost Feeding on one of your plants next year to see how it works for you and gain the experience with this new method. This also applies to your seed stock as well. Always use several different seed stocks of Atlantic Giant Pumpkin. If the seed doesn't have the Genetics needed to produce a big one, all your hard work will not produce a monster. Good luck next year and I hope this will help you raise a champion. Figure 1

Starting the Giant Pumpkin Seedling

2010-04-04T16:25:00.000-07:00

STARTING THE GIANT PUMPKIN SEEDLING
by Ray Waterman

The first 9-10 days of the giant pumpkin plant's development requires special attention to insure a good start of a properly grown seedling. An understanding, by the grower, of the development and growth of the pumpkin seedling (and the entire plant & fruit) is necessary in an effort to eliminate any variables and set goals. This is most often gain by experience as in the case of the consistent competitor, although a first time grower can conquer these "variables" and show very well.

SEED SELECTION - it is imperative to select a variety with the genetic potential capable of producing a specimen sizeable for the competition you wish to enter. My suggestion for "World Class" competition is the Atlantic Giant. Select only full, mature, viable seed.

TARGETING SEED PLANTING - to set a seed planting date, one must review the plant's stages of growth, day length and the date of the competition (harvest). An understanding of local weather patterns may also be an influential factor for determining when to plant the seed or better to say, when to mature the seedling to the three (3) leaf stage for transplanting. Let's say there are three stages of the plants development to consider when targeting the seed planting date:

1. Seedling stage - seed planting to 3 leaf stage (9-10 days).
2. Plant growth stage - 3 leaf to fruit set date (60-70 days).
3. Fruiting stage - fruit set to harvest date (last 70-80+ days - fruit development)

To capsulate the all this targeting by example, we will say that the target date for competition is October 12. Count back 70-80+ days to the fruit set date of July 24 to August 3. Then count back 60-70 days to the planting date of May 15-25 and 9-10 back to the seed planting date (May 5-10). In reverse - 9-10 days to 3 leaf, +60-70 days to fruit set and +70-80 days to harvest (total days seed to harvest 130-150). Too often growers start too early!

PLANTING MEDIUM - it is most advantageous to use a light medium. The giant pumpking seed is one of the largest of the vegetable seeds, as it it is the larget vegetable plant fruit. The seed hasmuch organic matter and will take a great amount of moisturetherefore have the potential to damp off (rot). This single factor is the reason for much seed failure when planting giant pumpkin seed. Use a mix similar to this:

1/3 vermiculite
1/3 perlite
1/3 peat moss (add fungicide to mix)

A 9-10 day old seedling has few nutrient requirements but a small amount a water soluable fertilizer won't hurt.

PEAT POT - use 4 inch peat pots. Plant the peat pot and all when planting the seedling (this reduces root damage). Poke holes in the peat pot in several places at or near the bottom if no hole. The pot will hold an excessive amount of moisture if this not done. Fill the peat pot with the dry soil mix. Keep settling to a minimum.

FUNGICIDE - seed and potting mixture treatment are very important. This procedure will help control damping off, but alone without proper room temperature. moisture, and bottom heat, etc. may not be effective. Dampen the seed, then apply dry powder fungicide. Coat to the point of good coverage. When adding to the potting soil mix follow recommendations on the label; or just add a small amount.

PLANTING THE SEED - moisten the pot and medium. Initial moisture is essential to the seed, therefore moisten well the first time. The pot itself will take on much moisture (it's actually peat - sponge), this time it should be saturated. From then on let the moisture decrease, not to show through the peat pot after watering. Plant the seed 1/2 inch below the surface with the rooting end down, crown end up.

BOTTOM HEAT - is necessary for 4-5 days to give the seed enough heat to germinate. When the main root is 1 inch long STOP BOTTOM HEATING (it will destroy roots greater than 1 inch long). Suggest you use a plastic plant flat without holes. Jugs of warm water may be the most economical way to add heat. Remember to water individual pots and keep proper moisture.

ROOM TEMPERATURE - a temperature of 75-85 degrees F. is necessary. Most ideal being 85 degrees. Please understand a higher temperature has more moisture holding capacity.

VENTILATION - air movement is necessary to help control fungus growth and supply fresh air components to the seedling. Keep in mind that the ideal conditions for seedling growth are are also ideal for fungus growth.

LIGHTING - use "artificial lighting". Flourescent tubes 2-3 inches above the potting mixture surface and maintained at 2-3 inches above seedling stage will result in a sturdy not spindly (light starved) plant. It is not necessary to use a "Grow Lite", as a regular "Cool White" flourescent tube is just fine. Full light (24 hr.) will provide the seedling with the quantity of light required. The quality of the light is maintained by the closeness of the bulb to the plant.

LIGHTING - continue to check regularly. Be careful not to over water.

PLANTING THE SEEDLING - It is not necessary to temper or acclimate the seedling over a period of time. It is important to plant on or near the target date, when the seedling is at the early 3 leaf stage. Planting should be under a hot-tent or miniature greenhouse.

source: Ray Waterman

10 Tips on How To Grow A Giant Pumpkin

2010-04-04T16:20:00.000-07:00

How To Grow A Giant Pumpkin

If you ask 10 competitive pumpkin growers how to grow a giant pumpkin, you're likely to get 10 different answers. It seems everyone has his or her own way of coaxing the most weight out of these giants. But there is a thread of consistency that runs throughout all the instructions, and adhering to three basic tenets will get you well on the way to a world record. Above all else, you need good seed, good soil and good luck.

Good seed. If you want to grow a world-record pumpkin, you can forget about every variety of pumpkin out there except Howard Dill's patented Atlantic Giant. Since 1979, no other pumpkin variety has been a world champion. Good soil Pumpkins are large consumers of all the major plant nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium), as well as many minor nutrients like calcium and magnesium and other trace elements. The key for big growth is soil well amended with organic matter. In the fall or early spring, add two to five yards per plant of compost and rotted manures. Cow and horse manures are best. Use chicken manure sparingly and only in the fall. Cover crops of winter rye, plowed down in the spring, are fabulous. The soil pH should be between 6.5 and 6.8.

Good luck. If you can grow a good vegetable garden, you have the skill to grow a world-record pumpkin. I've seen newcomers grow 500-pound pumpkins their first year with good seed, some rudimentary help from an experienced grower and a lot of luck. With the right preparation and strategy now and in the spring (see the text on page 40 for tips on planning your assault on the world record), next year you might just be a contender for the world championship!

1. PREPARE THE SOIL. Start with a pH test in fall and adjust your pH to between 6.5 and 6.8 by adding sulfur to lower the pH or lime to raise it. Apply three to five yards of composted manure per 30-foot-diameter circle where you expect to plant next spring. Plant a cover crop of winter rye in fall to be turned under in early spring, broadcasting one to two pounds per 1,000-square-foot area.

2. SOW SEEDS. Start seed indoors in six-inch peat pots about four weeks before your last spring frost date. Plant the seed with the pointed end of the seed facing down. Keep the soil temperature at 85 to 90 degrees F. Most seeds will emerge within five days.

3. TRANSPLANT SEEDLINGS. Transplant seedlings into the garden once the first true leaves appear or when roots begin to grow through the peat pot (usually seven to 10 days after germination). Handle with care because pumpkins are easily set back during transplanting.

4. PROTECT SEEDLINGS. Place a "mini-greenhouse" over the seedlings for six weeks to shield plants from wind and frost. These mini-greenhouses can be as simple as two storm windows nailed together to form a teepee or as elaborate as a four- by four-foot wooden structure made from 1x2 lumber nailed together with 6-mil clear plastic stapled to cover the frame. Once seedlings outgrow the mini-greenhouse, use a temporary fence to screen wind. I use "conservation" fence, which is bought with wood end stakes attached and is commonly used at new construction sites. A 100-foot roll cut into three pieces is enough for three 11-foot-diameter areas.

5. POLLINATE FLOWERS. Eight to 10 weeks after seed starting, the first female flowers will appear. They're easy to distinguish because they have a small pumpkin at their base. If you want to get a jump on your rival, you'll need to hand-pollinate the flowers. In the early morning, locate a freshly opened male flower. Pick it and remove the outer flower petals, exposing the stamen and fresh pollen. Locate a newly opened female flower and gently swab the stigma (internal parts) of the female flower with the pollen-laden stamen.

Getting a pumpkin set as early as possible, preferably before July 10, is key. The earlier you set a pumpkin, the longer it has to grow until harvest. Since these monsters can gain 25 pounds a day, losing 10 days in the early part of the season could put you well down the list at your local pumpkin weigh-off.

6. REPOSITION SET PUMPKINS. Once a pumpkin has set, its position on the vine becomes extremely important. Most often the stem grows at a very acute angle to the vine. However, for optimal long-term growth, the best position is to have the stem perpendicular to the vine. If yours is not at right angles to the vine naturally, coax it gradually, over about a week's time, until it is in that position. Be careful, because at this early stage pumpkins may still abort or you may injure the fragile stem.

7. SELECT THE MOST PROMISING PUMPKIN. If one plant has three strong vines, you could have as many as seven or eight pumpkins set and growing by July 20. Now you must choose the best pumpkin and remove most of the rest. Measure each pumpkin's circumference at the widest point weekly or daily with a cloth measuring tape. Choose the one that's growing fastest. Also, keep an eye out for the optimum shape. Young pumpkins that are round and especially tall grow the largest.

8. PRUNE VINES. Begin pruning vines early in the season to discourage random growth and an out-of-control patch. Prune each main vine when it has reached 10 to 12 feet beyond a set fruit. If you have a pumpkin on a vine that is 10 feet from the main root, cut the end of that vine once it is 20 to 24 feet long. Let side shoots off the main vines get no longer than eight feet before cutting off tips. Train side shoots so they are perpendicular to the main vine to accommodate access to the vines and pumpkins. Bury the ends of cut vines to reduce water loss.

9. FERTILIZE. During the growing season, most fertility needs of pumpkins can be met by applying water-soluble plant foods once or twice a week over the entire plant area. Give seedlings a fertilizer that stresses phosphorus, such as 15-30-15. Shift to a more balanced formula, such as 20-20-20, once fruits are set.

By late July, use a formula that stresses potassium, such as 15-11-29. I apply water-soluble fertilizer at the rate of one to two pounds per week per plant from fruit set until the end of the growing season. Some competitive growers will err on the side of overfertilization. But too much fertilizer can hurt more than help. If the pumpkins start growing too fast, they will literally tear themselves from the vine and explode. A very fine grower in New England told me, "Slow and easy wins the race." Remember this whenever you feel the urge to over fertilize.

10. KEEP TRACK. Measure your pumpkins at least weekly. Gains in circumference can average four to six inches in a 24 hour period. Measure the circumference of your pumpkins first parallel to the ground around the entire pumpkin, from blossom end to stem. Next, measure over the top in both directions: from ground to ground along the axis from stem to blossom end, then perpendicular to the stem-blossom-end axis. Add these three measurements together, then multiply by 1.9 to give an estimate of the pumpkin's weight.

article by: Don Langevin

source: http://www.backyardgardener.com/wcgp/tips/10steps/10steps.html